Quarter of a Century.

Uncertainties and doubts loom large

But it was time for the annual recharge.

They say nature has the power to heal

With renewed vigour and zeal,

I set off towards yet another climb,

Except this was one was past bedtime!

Through the city we trudged for an hour or so,

And then we began our trek underneath the starry glow.

Puffing and panting, I was breathless in minutes,

Looking down, I could see the lights of the nearby rustic huts.

Why go through this, I asked my sedentary self plenty

But perhaps this is Nature's cashless fee.

As the cold winds taunted us towards the edge,

I knew this was a test I could not sledge.

Settling down into a sleeping bag on the hilltop

I realized there are so many things in Life I cannot stop

But the beauty of the nightsky was mine to cherish

The whizzing shooting stars were mine to wish.

Waking up to an ethereal streak of colour

That slowly grew into shades of pink and amber,

A peacock screamed lustily in the distance,

And Nature thus showcased her brilliance.

In the midst of the uncertainty that lies ahead

Not knowing the upcoming paths I shall tread,

This moment would be mine for eternity

Nature demands, but also unconditionally provides.

Backpacker Diaries

"Seriously?!" she asked me in surprise, "You're going alone all the way to Cochin?"

"Are you really going alone or is there something you're not telling me?" said another with a sly grin.

After my spontaneous decision to go backpacking resurfaced, it wasn't difficult to choose: Kochi or Alleppey since I wanted to travel God's Own Country.

After having a good look at the options at hand, I got the travel bookings done thanks to Abhi and BP, packed my bags for 4 odd days, borrowed some sunscreen and a good power bank and set off on yet another journey to explore!


The journey to Mangalore was a night bus and I managed to catch some shut eye despite the window sneaking in cold air as we rattled our way through the Ghats. The next morning after a quick "Wash and Brush" at the dingy bus stop and a simple breakfast, I headed to Mangalore Central, found my way to the right platform and boarded the 7:20 Ernad Express that starts from Mangalore, traverses through Kasargod, Thrissur, Kannur, Kozhikode, Cochin and Alleppey, all the way upto Tirunelveli. It was a pleasant journey with a scenic view of streams, canals, coconut fields and green fields and I reached Cochin by late evening, found myself an Uber and reached Zostel after a 45 minute drive through the city's bustling lanes, overlooking the lit up port and through the quieter neighbourhoods.

Cochin, the conglomeration of Ernakulam town, Mattancherry, Fort Kochi, Willingdon Island and a few other nearby islands, is historically famous its role as a trading centre, a thriving port town and the epicentre of cultural exchanges back in the day. The earliest visitors were probably the Chinese who are known for their most famous contribution to the city: Fishing Nets that dot the landscape of the sealine. After them, came the Arabs, followed by the Portuguese, the Dutch who brought Kochi to the international limelight as the hotspot of spice trade and a commercial hub. Lastly, the British arrived and mainly used it as a colonial settlement but not before it had made a lasting impression in the international circuit for its trade relations. 



So in retrospect, it made perfect sense to me that I had Americans, South Asians and Europeans as roommates and subsequently interacted with a diverse lot in the following day! I opted to go on a boat ride in the morning and we were joined by new travelers along the way until we reached Vaikom. 

Thampi, our guide, told us about the agenda for the day and we set off in two small boats (or canoes) through the backwaters, gently sailing through the narrower canals even as the tree lined canopy shaded us from the heat of the sun. Water snakes, washerwomen and bathing children greeted us along the way until we disembarked at one of the settlements to have a look at the spices like cardomom, clove, bay leaf and nutmeg. We had a glimpse of how coir was made (Unity is Strength was the take home message) and later had a traditional Kerala lunch on a plantain leaf.

During the course of the day, I spent time with my roomates, Gaby and her friend who were Americans working as teachers in Thailand and we shared some light moments and 'rice crackers', a crispy snack from Thailand. There was Naomi and her friend from England who were friendly and we bonded when I realized Naomi was a doctor and wanted to pursue Tropical Medicine. Then there was blue eyed Robin and his friend Yohaan from Germany who were students on a vacation and Ponya, also from Germany who had traveled across the length and breadth of our country. There was a pretty young girl, Anna also from Britain who was on a gap year after finishing high school. Coming to India was a revelation of sorts for her since this was where her parents met when they were in college. Then there was the All American couple, John and Debbie, who were pleasantly surprised to know that I was from Bangalore and not in IT. I learnt a little about the american healthcare system and also why medical tourism in India is picking up rapidly. The web designer from Paris had some stories to share about his stay in Sao Paulo and Germany while Lee, the American shared his experience and photos of the Aarthi at Varanasi. While he worked as a limousine driver for half the year, the other half was (wisely) spent in traveling across the world. 

Post the boat ride, I met another Asian, Nanthini, from Malaysia who was also on a solo trip and we watched a beautiful sunset by the beachside. I was glad to have a fellow companion as we ventured around Kochi at our pace. Perhaps it was the Asian connection or just two individuals bonding over their love for travel but either way, ai was glad to have found a comrade. In a way, Kochi was and still is, the melting pot of many cultures as it continues to attract travelers, tourists, businessmen and artists alike. 

The following day, Nanthini and I made a neat plan thanks to the folks at Zostel and we began with a visit to the Mattancherry/ Dutch palace which houses intricate murals and a lot of artefacts that detail the era of the Kerala rulers. It detailed the lineage of Raja Rama Varma, the matriarchal system, their weapons, wardrobe and a general preview of the life they lead. 


After this we took a walk down the Jew Town and shopped judiciously for curios. A customary visit to the Synagogue showed us a few paintings that explain the role of Jews in Cochin, their arrival, trials and triumphs. For lunch, we headed to Fusion Bay where Nanthini got her much awaited fish curry cooked in the traditional Kerala style with a hint of Mango while I was content with some Okra Masala and Malabar Parota. Post lunch, we rested awhile at Santa Cruz Basilica, refreshed at Zostel and then headed to Kerala Kathakali Centre. 

Kathakali is an ancient dance form originating in Kerala as a variant of Krishnanattam under the then king's support. It is known for its detailed makeup and costume efforts, intricate facial expressions, mudras (hand movements) that signify different meanings and the enactment of a story from any mythological tale such as the Ramayana or Mahabharatha with drum beats, cymbals and vocals to accompany the performance. Kathakali performances are traditionally known to last for several hours and generally involve only male artists. 

We arrived in time to watch the make up in progress which every performer applied by himself for the most part. We were taken through the basics of Kathakali before we began with the story depiction. With rhythmic drumbeats, spirited use of cymbals and intense expressions, it was a complete performance that left one wanting more. 




After dinner at a nearby cafe and bidding goodbye to my newly found friends, I struck up a conversation with my Uber driver as we made our way back to Ernakulam Junction Railway Station for the Maveli Express. A nursing student, he was surprised that someone would travel alone but I think I made some valid points in my defense and appeared to be more open to the idea by the end of the journey. 

A delayed train journey, some Ideal Gudbud for breakfast in Mangalore and a bus ride later, I was back to the comfort of my room in Shimoga with a cartload of memories and the unmistakable self confidence that comes when you know you are independent. :)

PS: Half the pictures are courtesy of Nanthini's photography skills and the rest are probably the last works of my phone as it lies on its deathbed. :P